Chasing Waterfalls: A Hike Through the Brecon Beacons’ Four Falls Trail

TLC might’ve said “don’t go chasing waterfalls,” but I’m willing to bet they never stumbled upon the Brecon Beacons in full flow. Welcome to the self‑proclaimed “waterfall country,” where we scuttled off for my mum’s birthday (sorry, TLC—she’s still holding a grudge).

Tucked into South Wales’ Brecon Beacons National Park, the Four Falls Trail is a 4½–6‑mile loop that feels like wandering through a Tolkien set—fern‑draped gorges, moss‑clad boulders, and ancient trees forming a natural cathedral above you. Carved by the frothy Afon Mellte (part of the Fforest Fawr Geopark), each twist in the path teases the roar of your next cascade—and trust me, by the time you hit Sgwd yr Eira and step behind that curtain of water, you’ll understand why TLC never saw this coming. Lace up, pack your sense of wonder (and maybe a spare pair of socks), and let’s dive in!

Tips before you travel ⛰️🥾🌧️🧺

Say hi to my dad!

⛰️ wear good footwear! the path is very slippery! And although well built it has some parts which are very slippery and need a good grip! So get those laces tied and make sure you’re ready!

⛰️ pack a picnic! Trust me on this! Although the walk isn’t a full day, I would genuinely get some sandwiches in a box and head with this! There are so many places to sit and eat with a magnificent view (stay tuned and I’ll tell you my favourite!). Don’t forget the water!!! I can’t express how much you may need this! And pro medic tip- let’s not get dehydrated!

⛰️ wear waterproofs- this can include a swimming cozzy in the summer, where you can actually swim in the shallow waters! But also includes a waterproof coat- light weight if needed. You’ll get splashed on some of the waterfalls, but especially if you’re planning on walking behind the star of the show (more below!)

⛰️ charge your phone and bring a power bank!! I made this mistake! There are so many beautiful things to see here, and you want to feel, capture and share everything! So make sure you have enough charge to keep you going!

Where it all begins

But before you can even lace up your boots and begin the hike, you need to figure out where you start from!

Depending on how you’re getting there, there, there are a few places you can start your journey!

Via car

There are two car parks that you can start at for this:

  1. Gwaun Hepste car park

🥾Often signposted as the “Four Falls Trail Car Park.”

🥾Located just off the B4274 at Pontneddfechan (OS grid ref SN 890 114).

🥾Open 24 hrs, has picnic tables and a big information board at the start of the trail

🥾has toilets, picnic tables, maps – perfect for hikers

Car park 1 (click on this link for direct Google maps direction to the car park)

This is the bigger of the two car parks and I would suggest coming here first! It’s a pay and display car park (cards accepted for this).

2. Cwm Porth Car park

🥾 found on the trail too, but seeing the waterfalls backwards!

🥾it’s a smaller car park (only 8-10 cars)

🥾 single portaloo only

🥾 minimal signage – so come prepared with a GPS or a map

Car park 2 (click on this for directions for Google maps)

Where you start depends on you, but as a tip

  • If you value space, signage and don’t mind a few extra hiking buddies- pick car park 1
  • If you’re up early and want a quieter hike, and/ or crave the first up waterfall thrill – choose car park 2.

Via bus or public transport

The stops are the same starting points but getting here is slightly different!

  1. Gwaun Hepste car park

🚌 Train to Neath

Neath is the closest station, and you can get here from Cardiff or Swansea (in Wales) or a direct train from London Paddington if you’re coming from there!

🚌 bus from Neath

  • X55 Cymru Clipper: This bus runs from Swansea and Neath to Pontneddfechan, serving both the Angel Inn and Dinas Rock, according to Brecon Beacons National Park. 
  • X75: This bus travels from Merthyr Tydfil to Swansea via Hirwaun, Glynneath, and Neath, according to Brecon Beacons National Park. 
  • Summer Park & Ride Service: A free bus service operates from Lancaster Close car park in Neath to Gwaun Hepste (one of the starting points for the walk) on weekends and bank holidays, according to the Brecon Beacons National Park and Dramatic Heart of Wales

Unfortunately Google maps isn’t of much help in this area for buses! So just be warned and plan ahead!

the cymru clipper map

Let’s meet the main characters

So off we set, our waterproofs on and water bottles packed we set off from Gwaun Hepste car park. We had arrived on a sunny day in march, so the rush of people wasn’t as bad, and we still managed to find parking despite starting after midday!

Map to the trail (offical map link)
  1. Sgwd Clun- Gwyn

Roughly translates to ‘fall of the white meadow’. It is the only waterfall that you can see from above!

You’ve been walking for about 20-30 minutes before your first waterfall can be seen. But you can seriously experience this waterfall – hearing it well before you see it.

‼️ just a little warning, especially if you’re with kids! There aren’t any fences and a very high cliff here. So if you’re squeamish with heights or want that extra safety just be warned!

2. Sgwd Isaf Clun-Gwyn

Now, full disclosure: I’ve got friends who hike for fun. Like, actual hiking for hiking’s sake. That’s never really been my vibe. I need a little more… motivation. Which is exactly why this trail stood out to me.

The Four Waterfall Walk feels less like a hike and more like a scenic Easter egg hunt — but instead of chocolate, you’re chasing waterfalls (arguably more photogenic, slightly less tasty). So by the time we were making our way to the second waterfall, about 20 minutes from the first, my excitement was reaching mildly feral levels. Like a toddler spotting cake. Every bend in the path had me thinking, “Is this it? Are we there? Is that… no, just a wet rock.

Unlike the first waterfall, this one really makes you work for it. There’s no gentle stroll here — the path veers off the main route and plunges you down into a steep, muddy valley that feels like nature’s version of a slip ’n slide. And when I say mud, I mean mud. The kind that clings to your boots, your legs, and maybe even your soul. You will get dirty. Embrace it.

This part of the trail definitely isn’t one for the faint-hearted (or faint-footed). If you’ve got issues with balance, dodgy knees, or anything that makes navigating uneven terrain tricky — I’d seriously reconsider. The footpath is narrow, slippery, and loves throwing the odd rogue tree root at you when you least expect it.

But hey, adventure, right?

This is the moment when the real satisfaction of the walk hits you. As you approach this waterfall, you’ll spot four elegant streams cascading down the rock face like nature’s version of a slow-motion hair commercial. It’s the first big showstopper of the hike, and honestly? I wasn’t prepared for how beautiful it would be.

The area around it is ridiculously scenic — mossy rocks, leafy trees, and that perfect blend of wild and peaceful. And because you get right up close to the falls, the sound is all-encompassing. It’s like a natural white noise machine cranked up to “spa for the soul.” Whatever stress you were carrying? It dissolves into the spray

The best bit- it’s time to take out the swimsuit and jump in!

A few sensible things to say though:

🌊 GO AT YOUR OWN RISK – there are NO lifeguards here, so jumping in, although doable and many people do, be careful and understand the risks!

🌊 the rocks can be very very slippery! So jump in but getting in and out can be very tough. So I would really suggest wearing some water shoes! (I’ll drop some selections below with good reviews – no ads don’t worry!)

🌊 After heavy rain, the currents can be worse and the flow becomes a bit more dangerous.

🌊 THE WATERFALL IS COLDDDD! Okay so the water may not come from a glacier, but it still comes from the Welsh mountains, and the result: icy cold water! Great for health (we all remember those ice baths!) but also one to be prepared for- think of having a hot drink and a towel ready!

3. Sgwd y Pannwr

The second and third waterfall are very close to each other. So the difficult walk down is completely worth it! It’s like 2 for the price of 1!

Here’s the best bit- since you’re at the base of the waterfall, the limestone rocks and gorge that is here is genuinely beautiful. This is best time in my opinion to get your picnic out, watch the stream before you head to the next waterfall.

The mini stream before the big waterfall, shout out to the muddy boots that were the price!

And then you finally arrive at waterfall number 3!!

The name of the waterfall roughly translates to ‘the fall of the fuller’, referring to how it may have been used when ‘fullers’ (people who would clean and thicken wools). There is a potential for the water to have been used for this mill in the past.

Now prepare to go back through the mud and slippery bits! The way back up is steep! So prepare to be a bit out of breath.

4. gwd yr Eira

For the grand finaleeeee we have the ‘fall of snow’.

When I say a waterfall took my breath away, I don’t mean that in a poetic, wanderlusty kind of way — I mean literally. My parents had officially retired from the hike at this point. They took one look at the steep descent and said, “Nope, we’re good.” Fair enough — after hauling ourselves back up from the last two waterfalls, I get it. They were done. But oh man, did they miss out.

This one? The main event. The Beyoncé of waterfalls.

Now, the path down is no joke. There are wooden steps (shoutout to whoever built those), so it’s not wild terrain, but when it’s wet? It turns into the slip ‘n slide of doom. And when I say it’s steep, I mean capital S-T-E-E-P. We passed a guy coming back up who looked like he’d just run a marathon with a backpack full of regrets. Face red. Breathing heavy. Total legend.

But was it worth it?

One thousand percent yes.

Can you spot me stood behind there?

So what about after the waterfall?

Honestly, by the end of the hike, our legs were shaking, our boots were covered in questionable mud, and we’d eaten approximately 80% of our snacks before waterfall #2. But would I do it all over again?

In a heartbeat.

The Four Waterfalls Trail isn’t just a hike — it’s a mini adventure that throws in a little bit of everything: forest magic, full-on fantasy film vibes, and a good bit of cardio. It’s the kind of place that makes you forget your emails exist and reminds you that the UK actually does have some wildly underrated gems.

And if you want to see the chaos, the beauty, and the slightly unhinged waterfall joy for yourself — I made a little TikTok about the whole thing.

Check it out here: https://vm.tiktok.com/ZNdYM1sqS/https://vm.tiktok.com/ZNdYMfPNK/

If you’ve done the hike (or plan to), let me know in the comments — especially if you made it to the final fall without turning into a woodland cryptid like I nearly did. And hey, follow along for more slightly sweaty, occasionally scenic adventures with Two Medics and a Camera.

Catch you at the next waterfall (or at the pub after).

(Please note animation generated from AI)

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